A Few of the Top .0000001 Waterfalls in Fjord Country

They frost the fjord cliffs, gush under the railroad tunnels, stream through the fog, slide across rainbows, disappear gently into thin air. They are the waterfalls of fjord country; blink and you might miss one. 

Borgund Hike

After touring the Stave Church at Borgund, we embarked on a two-hour hike into the valley behind it. Well, it was supposed to be a two-hour hike. It actually took us over three, as we continually stopped to marvel at our surroundings and snap photos. Mossy glens led up to an old road painstakingly built up the valley in the early twentieth century, which then snaked down to a cascade. Mushrooms of every size and color brightened our path, as we climbed by old homesteads that still seemed to be working, evidenced by the long grass drying on racks in the sun. We finally descended back to the church through idyllic countryside, walking through sun-dappled path with sheep bahh-ing on either side of us. By the time we got back to the church, we had missed the early bus, so hitched a ride with a friendly Czech couple going our direction.

A new postcard line for Norway?

So throughout our time in Norway, I was always looking for postcards. And I found several, bought several. But I had that perfect combination of kronar and a driving desire for postcards, and I didn't get many. Why? 

They need to revamp their postcard line in Fjord country. There is a huge surplus of cards featuring cruise ships marring beautiful fjords and brave skin-baring swimmers blocking cliffside views. 

So here I present some other options, and may the tourist board of that stunning country get around to modernizing their outgoing postal line some day soon...

Aurlandsdalen

After the man at the tourist information office recommended that, given the rainy weather, we not take the Aurlandsdalen hike, Betsy gamely asked, "You mean because it's wet dangerous or wet annoying?" When he said annoying, we bought bus tickets. And the rainbow we saw en route was just part of the compensation for defying his advice. Countless waterfalls, restored farmsteads, plump raspberries practically the whole way begging to be picked, and tiny hamlets nestled into the hill above a 2000 foot drop made this a memorable hike. It was 14 miles, almost all downhill, as we followed a tumbling river from Osterbo to Vassbygdi. And it was, to borrow Ithaca's pun, gorgeous.

Fjord Views

Fjords, sometimes swathed in low-lying clouds, sometimes so still you can see every line of the cliffs above reflected in their mirror, are every bit as cold as they say. We hiked along them, rode buses around them, cruised through the center of them, hiked to the cliffs above them so we could stare down at their beauty from another angle. I like to think of the fjords of Norway as the proud grandfathers of the slightly more approachable Minnesota lakes. 

Borgund Stave Church

In the Borgund Stave Church pamphlet, the structure is given the Harry Potter-esque nickname, "The church that has survived." Most stave churches were built between 1130 and 1350, before the Plague ravaged Norway. Of the 1000 originally constructed, only 28 are still standing, and the church you see below is widely acknowledged to be the best preserved.

Stave churches take their names from the large wooden support beams, or staves, that anchor the church. Norwegians were already well known for their woodwork (think Viking ships), so it's no surprise that they extended their craft to churches. Some of the remarkable features include wooden support "elbows" that were taken from the curve of a tree where the roots meet the trunk, so that these pieces could naturally support the weight above them.

Standing in the church, it was incredible to think that I was being sheltered by wood first cut almost 800 years ago. Even "the boy who lived" would be impressed by that.

Mushrooms of Norway

Especially for Mom.

I'm thinking of you!!!

Oslo, Norway

The Old and the New sit comfortably together

A Vigeland sculpture, crafted by one of Oslo's most famous artists

Many colorful buildings adorn the lanes spiderwebbing out from the main tourist street, Karl Johan's Gate

Bread on display inside a local bakery

The Opera House on the Harbor

Visiting Oslo is like discovering a new neighborhood in a city you already like. It welcomes you in, offering new possibilities with a feel of familiarity. Fountains spring up in streams and bubbles, de Luca delis proffer ice cream and calzones on seemingly every corner, bicycles wizz by, and sun streaming through the trees beckons you into the parks. You might stumble across a miniature farmer's market behind the cathedral and buy some raspberries, wander down to the harbor and see the Nobel Peace center by accident, admire the fashionable chic of the Norwegians coping with the onset of fall with sweaters of every color, thickness, and length. You might have a cardamom roll in a warm bakery and notice a pile of blankets in the corner for people to take out to the chilly courtyard. 

At least that's what we did. And liked it. 

Published!

Paris Skates

By Betsy Potash

"Paris is a city of crispy-sweet macaroons, quirky metro signs, lazily flowing water, and clicking cameras. On foot, one can only hope to experience isolated pieces of the city on a weekend vacation – the Eiffel tower, a bakery or two, the buzz and flow of the streets. That’s why many visitors are joining the locals on Fridays and Sundays for a fresh phenomenon called “Paris Rollers.” For thousands of in-line skaters a week, the details of Paris blend into the loveliest of gyms as they speed through the streets of the city with police chaperones..."

Read More at UK Travel Mag Online. 

Coming Soon: Visions of Norway

The Boundary Waters

This past week, Betsy's family took me on my first trip to the Boundary Waters, the chain of endless lakes that form the border between Minnesota and Canada. Minnesota is, somewhat humbly, called the "Land of 10,000 Lakes." We explored about six of them, making our camp on a rocky outcrop in the middle of Insula Lake. It was a peaceful, relaxing few days, full of paddling, listening to loons, sitting by the campfire, and playing cards in a mosquito-filled tent. We went swimming to cool off, admired a family of Merganzers, and stood by the fire to make our clothes smell smoky. I can't wait to go back!